Tiger Sheds

What equipment do I require in order to assemble my garden building?

This will vary depending on the style and material of the building you have purchased but the following items may be required for your building;

Wooden Sheds and Summerhouses - Spirit level, hammer, adjustable spanner, handsaw, stanley knife, stepladder, sealant and gun.

Log Cabins - Electric Screwdriver, wooden or rubber mallet, spirit level, hammer, handsaw, stanley knife, stepladder, sealant and gun.

Metal Sheds - Electric Screwdriver, power drill, adjustable spanner, sealant and gun.

How to build a Wooden Shed for your Garden

One question we are frequently asked is - 'how difficult is it to build one of your sheds?' Simply put - it isn't hard to do. In this guide, you will learn how easy it is to build a Tiger Shed.

Is it difficult to build a Shed?

Believe it or not, you don’t need to be a professional to build a Garden Shed! With some assistance, Shed assembly is a DIY task that is easier than you may think.

Below is a simple guide on how to build a traditional Apex Garden Shed.

Your Tiger Shed will come with full assembly instructions. These instructions are a simple step-by-step guide to Shed assembly. Remember – your Shed might have more than four side walls to it so assembly would be a little different in this case!

What do I need to build a Shed?

Before even considering assembly of a Garden Shed, there are three things you need to do:

Check your base
Check your components
Check you have the tools required and at least one other person to assist

You need to have a firm and level base prepared to build your Shed on. This must be made using a suitably durable material such as concrete or paving slabs. If you’re unsure how to do this or would like some guidance to ensure your base is correct, please view our ‘Build a Base Guide’.

It is vital that you also check you have all of your components in order to complete the assembly. With the delivery of your Shed, you will receive a component list which will allow you to check off the parts received against the parts you should have. Generally, each Garden Shed will comprise of panels for the four walls, floor, and roof, felt, and fixings.

Top Tip: Taking the time to check through your components before assembly will aid a swift and efficient build process.

The final preparation you need to make for assembly of your Garden Shed is ensuring that you have all the tools you are going to need. For assembly of Tiger Sheds, you will need the following:

Hammer
Monkey Wrench or Adjustable Spanner
Step Ladder
Spirit Level
Tape Measure
Safety Gloves or appropriate PPE

Top Tip: For safety, we would advise that Shed assembly is always carried out by a minimum of two people – one person to hold the components in place and a second to nail or bolt into position.

If you have checked and prepared everything required to build, you’re ready to assemble the Shed.

Step One – Position the Floor Panel

Lay the floor panel(s) down in the desired position and check that the floor is level. If the floor is not level, you may need to pack under the bearers with some blocks to level out the base. At this stage, you may wish to check that the floor is square by measuring diagonally across the floor from corner to corner. Each diagonal measurement should be the same.

Top Tip: If your floor is not square, you can measure the panels to check that they match up to the corresponding side of the floor. If they do, it may be that the panel has simply been knocked out of alignment during transit. You can resolve this by tapping the floor at the corners to straighten it out again.

Step Two – Position and Secure Gables and Sides

First of all, position one gable end panel on to one end of the floor panel.

Next, offer-up a side wall panel and secure this to the gable by using the 38mm nails. You should nail through the side into the gables internally. Using the coach screws provided, secure the gable panel to the side panel, through the pre-drilled holes in the gable from the outside.

Now, you need to place the second gable panel in position and secure this to the side panel you have just put in place. Again, use the 38mm nails and coach screws provided.

Finally, position your final side wall panel and secure with the nails and coach screws as before.

When all of your wall panels are in place and you are satisfied that they are sitting square, secure them to the floor using the 65mm nails provided. You will need to nail through the side and gable panel base rails, through the floor boards and into the floor joists/bearers below.

Top Tip: There are lines of nails across the floor panel where the floor boards have been secured to the bearers. These can be used as a guide to ensure that you secure the base rails at the correct points to penetrate the bearers below.

Step Three – Position and Secure the Roof Panels

Place the roof panels in position and secure these internally to each other with the 65mm nails provided. You may need to pull the two panels together at the apex before you can nail them to each other.

Next nail the roof to the gables and side frame with the 38mm and 65mm nails provided.

Top Tip: If at any point the roof panels do not align correctly or the door does not open/close properly, this may suggest that the building is not sitting square on your base and has become twisted. To resolve, one or more corners of the building may need lifting slightly to straighten it out. Once square, you can secure the roof panels. If you are having trouble with this and need extra advice, please refer to our Online Help Guide.

Step Four – Felt the Roof

Before starting, please be aware that certain sizes of building may need the felt cutting into two or more pieces. Please consult the felt guide you will receive with your building for more information.

After checking the number of lengths of felt required, cut the felt received if necessary and roll out along the lower part of one side of the roof. Allow sufficient overhang to fold down onto the roof framing (but not the underside of the roof). Use the clout nails provided to tack along the top edge of felt. Repeat this process on the other side of the roof.

Depending on the size of building, you may need to repeat this process along the upper sections of the roof, overlapping the felt at the apex. Not all buildings require a ridge piece so it is best to check the felt guide if you are unsure.

Top Tip: Don’t set your felt too low when positioning the first strip as you will find that you won’t have enough to cover the roof. You will only need an overlap of around 3 inches and will then have enough to cover with the felt supplied.

Step Five – Fit Bargeboards and Finials

Secure the Bargeboards to the Roof Panels, trapping the overhanging end of the felt in-between to provide a weather seal. When you are happy with the position of the Bargeboards, secure the diamond-shaped Finials to the Bargeboards at the Apex.

Top Tip: The Bargeboards are generally slightly longer than the roof panels. However, you can cut them down to be flush with the edges of the roof if you would prefer. To do so, hold the boards up against the gable ends and cut before securing them into place.

Step Six – Fit and Seal the Glazing

Slot the Glass or Styrene into position and secure using the panel pins provided. You will need to gently tap the pins into the window-frame to avoid scratching the windows.

If you have the Styrene windows for your building, you will need to remove the protective film from the panes.

You will need to seal the windows after the panes have been fitted to ensure they are weatherproof. To do so, use a suitable sealant product such as silicone, mastic, putty, etc. and your choice of beading to reinforce the panes if preferred.

Top Tip: To prevent scratches on the glazing while hammering in the pins, you should leave the protective plastic on the panes until fitted. You may also wish to use a piece of thin cardboard or similar to stop the hammer coming into direct contact with the panes.

Step Seven – Fit the Corner Strips

To finish assembly, use the 38mm nails provided to secure the corner strips to the exterior corners of the Shed where the panels meet. These may need cutting to fit.

Now all that’s left is to treat your Garden Shed with a suitable waterproofing preservative inside and out.

Don’t forget to share your completed building with us! #yourtigershed

How long does it take to assemble my building?

This will vary depending on the style and size of the building you have purchased but the following could be used as a general guide for your building;
Smaller Wooden Sheds and Summerhouses (1-2 persons) approx 1-2 hours
Larger Wooden Sheds and Summerhouses (2 persons) approx 2-3 hours
Smaller Log Cabins (2 persons) approx 2-4 hours
Larger Log Cabins (2 persons) approx 3-5 hours

I need to build a base for my product, how can I do this?

It is essential that all garden buildings are assembled on a firm and level base constructed from an appropriate and durable material.

Without the correct base, buildings may be very difficult to assemble. In many cases, an incorrect base may lead to future deterioration of the product if assembly cannot be completed correctly as a result. Problems may include doors dropping out of square and becoming difficult to open and close, and/or water leakage.

Assembling a garden building on an incorrect base is also likely to invalidate any guarantee that your product may carry.

For full details and examples of how to create an appropriate base visit our Build a Base Guide.

I don't have any instructions, where can I find them?

You can find instructions for your building on the product page of our website underneath the Downloads section. A list of instructions for products across the Tiger range is available here:

Garden sheds

Log cabins

TigerFlex Moda Log Cabin [6x6] [12x6] [18x6]
TigerFlex Zora Log Cabin [8x6] [10x6] [14x6]
TigerFlex Nova Log Cabin [6x6] [12x6] [18x6]

Summer houses

Garden storage

Playhouses

Tigercub Playden

Other Buildings & Accessories

Tiger Shiplap Dog Kennel

Can I track an order?

You can track your order using the 'track your order' facility. Simply enter your full delivery postcode and unique order reference number to view which stage of the process your order is at.

Is the Shed treated?

The majority of our wooden sheds are dip treated with a temporary water-based treatment, which is red cedar in colour. This is the red/orange colour of the Sheds you will see online. We can supply the standard Sheds without any treatment but this would invalidate the timber guarantee.

We have a Pressure Treated Range of buildings, which are treated with Tanalith-E. These have a pale green tint to the timber as the treatment is a copper-based product designed to limit the chance of rot. The only buildings we supply untreated as a standard are the Log Cabins.

You can order a completely untreated Tiger Shed but this would invalidate the Timber Guarantee we offer.

We do advise that you need to treat any wooden building inside and out with a waterproofing treatment as soon as possible after delivery and annually thereafter. We do offer our own Tiger Sheds Preserver as an optional extra.

What is the difference between Overlap, Shiplap, and Loglap?

Overlap cladding is a rough-cut board with a finished cut thickness of 9mm. The cladding boards in the walls of an Overlap Shed will overlap each other and generally, the Overlap Sheds will include a roof and floor constructed using 9mm butt-jointed timber boards.

Shiplap cladding is a type of tongue and groove but there is a slight profile to each board to aid water run-off. Our Shiplap cladding is a smooth-planed board with a finished cut thickness of 12mm. Apart from the Tiger Wooden Garage (which has no floor at all), the Shiplap Sheds include a 12mm tongue and groove roof and floor. Our range of Pressure Treated Sheds are also made of Shiplap cladding but the boards have a thicker cut finish at 16mm and a 16mm tongue and groove roof and floor.

Available as an upgrade on most of our Shiplap Shed range, Loglap cladding is still tongue and groove but rather than a flat finish to each cladding board, each board has a curved finish. The loglap boards are planed to 15mm at the thickest point. As with the Shiplap Sheds, our Loglap buildings will generally include a 12mm tongue and groove roof and floor.

Do I need to be present to accept the delivery?

Provided that there is somewhere on your property our driver can leave the parts, you do not have to be present for the delivery. We will call you in advance of the delivery taking place to book it in so delivery in your absence will be agreed if necessary. If you would like, we can contact a neighbour, friend, or family member to meet the driver to receive the delivery on your behalf.

How are the products delivered?

Deliveries are carried out on vehicles up to the size of an 18 tonne Hiab in their flat-pack form. Generally, provided that you have sufficient access for a Refuse Lorry to gain easy access to your address, there will be enough space for our delivery vehicles. For further details, please see our Delivery Page.

How do I arrange for the Pro Installation to take place?

The Installation team will contact you after the delivery to arrange for assembly to take place. The teams have a guideline of 10 working days following the delivery in which to arrange for the Installation to take place.

What size of vehicle is used to deliver the Log Cabins?

28mm and 44mm Log Cabins are delivered on an 18 Tonne Hiab in order for them to be craned off the vehicle at the point of delivery. 19mm Log Cabins tend to be delivered on either a 3.5 or 7.5 Tonne flatbed.

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